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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. Yet, situated high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has made the owners totally shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest place achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary honour.